800 highway 400 south Hyderabad, City of Pearls, is like an elderly, impeccably dressed princess whose time has past. Once

Hyderabad, City of Pearls, is like an elderly, impeccably dressed princess whose time has past. Once the seat of the powerful and wealthy Qutb Shahi and Asaf Jahi dynasties, the city has seen centuries of great prosperity and innovation. Today, the Old City is full of centuries-old Islamic monuments and even older charms. In fact, the whole city is laced with architectural gems: ornate tombs, mosques, palaces and homes from the past are tucked away, faded and enchanting, in corners all over town. Keep your eyes open.

Vast dormitories (beds free) and guest- houses (r 50-2500) surround the temple in Tirumala, 800 highway 400 south but these are intended for pilgrims. To stay, check in at the Central Reception Offi ce. Huge dining halls (meals free) serve thousands of pilgrims daily. Veg restaurants also serve meals for 15. The following 800 highway 400 south places are all in Tirupathi.

Just west of the bridge is the spectacular Osmania General Hospital 800 highway 400 south (Map p900), on the north side, and, on the south, the High Court (Map p900) and Government City College (Map p900), all built under the seventh nizam in the Indo-Saracenic style.

MMTS trains (www.mmts.co.in) are convenient, particularly for the three main train stations. There are two main lines: Hyderabad (Nampally) to Lingampalli (northwest 800 highway 400 south of Banjara Hills) has 11 stops, including Lakdikapul, Khairatabad, Necklace Rd, Begumpet and Hitec City; the Falaknuma (south of Old City) to Secunderabad line passes by Yakutpura, Dabirpura, Malakpet 800 highway 400 south and Kachiguda among others. Trains will be labelled with their start and end point: HL is Hyderabad Lingampalli, FS is Falaknuma Secunderabad and so on. Trains are efficient but only run every 30 to 40 minutes. Tickets are 3 to 10.